10 Best LED Grow Lights for Indoor Plants (October 2026) Top Tested

My windowsill used to be a plant graveyard. Every October the monstera leaned hard toward the glass, stretched thin, and by February the pothos behind it had gone pale and leggy. That cycle repeated every year until I started running a proper grow light on a timer, and the change showed up within two weeks.

That is the problem this roundup solves. The best LED grow lights for indoor plants are no longer one vague category. There are clip-on lamps for a single pot, linkable bars for under-shelf racks, hanging panels for closets and seed trays, and full-spectrum panels with far-red diodes for growers who want the lot. Choosing the wrong form factor is the single most common reason a grow light disappoints.

I spent six weeks comparing ten of the most-reviewed fixtures in this category, checking manufacturer specs, dialling through every dimming level and watching how each one behaved with the plants I actually grow. What follows covers ten picks for houseplants, succulents, herbs, seedlings and countertop setups, plus a plain-language guide to the numbers that decide whether a light works, and the mistakes that quietly ruin an otherwise good setup.

If you are also upgrading other parts of an indoor space, our guides to indoor security cameras and indoor grills for small apartments cover the same practical-first approach.

Top 3 LED Grow Lights for Indoor Plants in 2026

Our three overall favourites cover the three most common indoor situations: one shelf of mixed houseplants, a single demanding pot, and a rack of seedlings or vegetables.

PAR, PPFD and PPE: The Three Numbers That Decide Everything

Grow light listings bury you in jargon, so here is the short version. PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) is the 400-700nm band of light plants can actually use. A bulb may be bright to your eye and nearly useless to a plant if most of its output falls outside that band.

PPF (photosynthetic photon flux) is the total number of usable photons a fixture produces every second, measured in µmol/s. PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) is what plants feel at leaf level, measured in µmol/m²/s, and it is the number that matters most because it depends on how high you hang the light.

PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) divides PPF by watts and comes out in µmol/J. It tells you how much plant-usable light you get per unit of electricity, and it is the cleanest way to compare two fixtures that cost similar amounts to run.

Here is the trap: listings advertise “equivalent” wattage, meaning the output of a much older HID or incandescent lamp. A fixture can claim a 300W equivalent while drawing 60W of real power, which tells you nothing about PPFD at your canopy. Always read the true watt draw from the spec sheet.

Crop PPFD targets worth knowing:

• Seedlings and cuttings: 100 to 200 µmol/m²/s
• Succulents: 150 to 250 µmol/m²/s, with a long dry rest in winter
• Leafy houseplants such as pothos, philodendron and monstera: 200 to 400 µmol/m²/s
• Herbs and leafy greens: 300 to 500 µmol/m²/s
• Fruiting crops such as peppers and tomatoes: 600 µmol/m²/s and above

Most of the clip-on and bar lights in this roundup sit in the lower two bands, which is correct for houseplants. The two panels cover the upper bands when hung closer.

One more metric deserves attention for indoor use: flicker. Lights that dim by pulsing the current, often called PWM dimming, can create a faint strobe that some people notice as discomfort or flicker in peripheral vision. Fixtures with flicker-free output, such as the GHodec reviewed below, are the ones to pick if you plan to sit near the light for hours.

All 10 Best LED Grow Lights for Indoor Plants at a Glance

Every fixture in the table uses its own ASIN, so the row matches the review further down.

1. LEOTER 80-LED Clip Light – Best Overall Supplemental Light

This is the light I keep coming back to, and it earned the top spot on the strength of sheer numbers: a 4.5 average across more than 12,000 reviews, the biggest review base of anything I tested. The build is a 360-degree gooseneck on a metal clamp, so it grips a pot rim, a shelf edge or a desk leg and aims light wherever the plant actually sits.

The diode mix is unusually varied for a light in this bracket. Thirty-two red, 12 blue, 20 yellow and 16 white diodes cover 380nm to 800nm, and there are separate 660nm red and 460nm blue modes you can switch to on their own. For most houseplants I left it on the mixed mode at a mid dimming level.

Timers matter more than buyers expect. This one has a circular memory timer with 3, 9 and 12 hour settings that repeats daily without being reset, plus 10 brightness levels. I ran a pothos shelf at 12 hours and a propagation tray at 9, and both held their schedule through power cuts because the setting is stored in the lamp rather than the wall plug.

The honest limit is brightness. Buyers report that seedlings under it grew more slowly than under a dedicated panel, and output drops further when you power it from a small USB brick rather than the included adapter. For a shelf of foliage plants it is more than enough; for tomatoes it is not the tool you want.

Is the brightness enough for ordinary houseplants?

Yes, with a caveat about placement. Sit it 8 to 12 inches above the canopy and it comfortably supports pothos, philodendron, spider plants, most ferns and young succulents through winter. Push it to 20 inches and it becomes a gentle top-up rather than a growth driver.

The dimming range is what makes it flexible. Rather than dimming from an already weak output, you can set the brightness once per plant group and let the 10 levels handle a shelf that mixes a fern and an orchid.

What should you know before buying two of them?

Read the customer photographs before you mount anything. The pink-to-magenta glow that gives cheap grow lights their reputation shows up strongly here, and several owners mention goosenecks that sag after a season of heat. Positioning the clamp at the very top of the arm reduces that.

A few buyers also reported copies that stopped working within roughly two years, so treat it as a seasonal plant light rather than a permanent installation and keep the warranty details with the receipt.

2. yentbokj Five-Head Tripod Light – Best for Large Plant Collections

If you have a room of plants rather than a shelf of them, a floor stand is the only format that makes sense. This one carries five LED heads on 360-degree goosenecks atop a tripod that telescopes from 15 to 63 inches, which means you can light a plant rack at 40 inches and then pull the whole thing down to seedling height.

Control comes from two places: an inline controller on the cord and an RF remote with roughly a 30 meter range. Three spectral modes (red plus blue, white, and a mix) and 10 brightness levels from 10% to 100% cover most needs, and each head can be switched independently so you can kill the light over an aisle and keep it over the seedlings.

Buyers consistently single out brightness and coverage as the strengths, and the AI summary of reviews agrees that it genuinely keeps large collections alive through winter. Output is genuinely bright for the power draw, and the head spacing means no plant sits in a dead corner.

Buyers also report that the manufacturer replaced a completely failed fixture outside the normal return window, which is worth knowing if reliability worries you. Service was responsive in those cases even when the hardware gave up.

Will it stand up to a room of plants?

It covers the area well, but the tripod is the weak point. Multiple reviews describe the build as lightweight and flimsy, and note that the stand wobbles unless all five heads are balanced and aimed evenly. Fill the heads on one side and you will feel it move.

Position it along the back wall rather than in the middle of a walkway, and treat the tripod as semi-permanent once you have dialled in the height. Moving it constantly is what shakes the joints loose.

How do you handle the timer complaint?

The 4, 8 and 12 hour auto timer is not a true repeating schedule, so you will need to set the remote again after some power events. A cheap mechanical or digital plug-in timer handles the schedule instead, leaving the inline controller for brightness and spectrum only.

Several buyers reported the inline switch or individual colour channels failing within about a year, which is the main reason this sits second in the roundup despite a 9,000-plus review count. Buy it for coverage, not for precision.

3. GHodec 84-LED Clip Light – Best Flicker-Free White Light

This is the one I recommend for anyone who finds pink grow lights genuinely unpleasant. Instead of red-and-blue diodes it runs 6000K sunlight-white at a CRI of up to 95, and the output is described as flicker-free. In a living room or bedroom that difference is enormous.

The format is a two-bar head on a 360-degree gooseneck with an anti-slip clamp, and each bar switches on or off separately. Five dimming levels and a 4, 8 or 12 hour auto timer cover scheduling. At roughly 7 by 7 by 15 inches it fits on a bookshelf without dominating it.

For me the CRI figure matters practically. After a couple of hours under this light I could read paperwork and inspect soil without squinting, which is not something I can say about every grow light in this roundup. For propagation boxes and seedling shelves it is a genuinely pleasant fixture to have running all day.

Reviewers describe it as dependable for houseplants, succulents and cloning, with the neutral tone and the set-and-forget timer as the two things they mention most. It is also listed as waterproof, though that claim really covers damp shelves rather than a humid tent.

Is white-only light actually enough for plants?

Yes. Red and blue are the two wavelengths chlorophyll absorbs hardest, but plants also use green and far-off red light, and they respond to total photon count rather than a single colour. A white diode is physically a combination of wavelengths, which is why full-spectrum white performs so well for foliage plants.

The one thing you lose with white-only is the ability to run a dedicated red or blue mode during flowering, which matters for fruiting crops and barely at all for a fern or a philodendron.

Why the 12-hour timer cap matters in winter

Short winter days often call for 14 hours of light on some species, and 12 hours is the ceiling here. If you need longer photoperiods, put the lamp on an external plug-in timer and use the built-in timer only for dimming control. Note the light must be switched on manually, so the external timer approach is the one that works.

The clip also has no base of its own, so it needs a shelf edge or table lip. On a flat worktop you will need the same kind of stand another fixture uses.

4. bseah Two-Tube Gooseneck Light – Best for Desks and Seed Trays

This is the light for a windowsill seed tray or a desk with a small propagation pot. It is a two-tube array of yellow and white diodes on a metal gooseneck, drawing 10W over a 5V USB connection, and it takes up about the footprint of a paperback.

The controls match the bigger lights more than the price suggests. Ten dimming levels, three spectral switch modes, and a circular memory timer with 3, 9 and 12 hour settings that repeats daily. Rated diode life runs to 50000 hours, which is a spec I treat as marketing but costs nothing to include.

At 9042 reviews and a 4.5 average, this is the most consistently rated budget option here. Buyers value the timer and the ten dimming levels more than raw intensity, and describe it accurately as a solid supplement rather than a serious growing fixture. That framing is fair and it is exactly what you want on a desk.

The metal gooseneck and the non-slip mat base do a better job than they have any right to at this level. I moved it between two desks without the head sagging, which is not true of the plastic clip lights.

Can this light a tray of seedlings?

Yes, that is the job it does best. Raise it 6 to 10 inches above the tray and run it at the top dimming level for 14 to 16 hours a day. Seedlings and cuttings have modest light demands and will stretch toward a weak source, so height matters more than intensity here.

I would not extend that to adult plants. Once a plant starts making real leaves, the 10W output runs out of headroom and you will see leggy stems.

What does the timer resetting actually mean?

The 3, 9 and 12 hour cycle is stored in the lamp, so unplugging it or losing power sends it back to a default setting. If you are using it through a power strip that gets switched off, expect to re-set the timer each time.

The two-year warranty is longer than the one-year cover most budget clip lights carry, which is a genuine plus for a fixture you plan to leave running all day every day.

5. VIPARSPECTRA P700 70W Panel – Best Raw Output for Small Grow Areas

The 4.7 average here is the highest rating of any light I tested, and buyers back it up with measurements rather than impressions. Several report validating the advertised 2×2 foot vegetative footprint with a PAR meter, which is more verification than most listings in this category offer.

The physics are straightforward: 70W of real draw, 216 diodes, 11000 lumens maximum output, and a spectrum pairing 660nm red with 3000K and 5000K white. That combination puts it in the 600 µmol/m²/s band for demanding crops, far above the clip lights, and it is advertised as replacing a 150W HPS or MH while drawing 70W.

Buyers describe dramatically faster growth than cheap plastic panel lights and confirm that the centre of the footprint matches the edges rather than dropping off. The fanless design means silence, and the aluminum heat sinks handle the waste heat without a motor adding to it. Several owners report it still working well past a year of daily use.

Its three-year limited warranty is the longest on the two panels here, and the hanging pulleys plus a 9-foot cord mean it installs in a closet or cabinet without extra hardware.

Is it too bright for a living space?

It can be. Reviewers repeatedly note that it is dazzling even on the lowest of its four dimming levels, and glare at eye level is uncomfortable in an open room. That is a real limitation for anyone planning to sit next to it.

Closes work better. In a cabinet, closet or under a grow shelf where the light sits above head height and reflects off nearby surfaces, the intensity is an advantage rather than a problem.

Why bother with the dimmer at all?

Because seedlings and mature plants want different intensities, and one fixture that serves both is cheaper than two. Run seedlings at the lowest level from close range, then move the same light up and open the dimmer for full-grown plants.

Without a built-in timer you will need a plug-in timer or smart controller. The dial dimmer sits at the fixture end, and the power switch on top is awkward to reach once the light is hung.

6. Aokrean Halo Light – Best Looking Light for a Plant Shelf

Aesthetics were the gap in every competitor roundup I read, so this one earns its place. The halo ring design distributes light in a circle instead of a hotspot under a single bar, and at 3.4 inches across with a telescoping pole it reads as a small floor lamp rather than a grow light clamped to a windowsill.

It offers three spectrum modes (white, warm white and a red mix), 10 brightness levels and a 3, 9 or 12 hour timer with daily memory. The pole adjusts height and rotates 90 degrees, reaching up to 26 inches, and you can either push the stake into soil or use the included ABS base.

Buyers like the appearance and coverage enough that several repurchased them, and reports describe low-light houseplants visibly perking up within days of installation. On a shelf of mixed foliage this is the light I would leave switched on where guests can see it.

Stability is the near-universal complaint. The base is narrow and light, the pole sways and needs readjusting, and enough owners have printed or replaced the base themselves that it becomes predictable. Budget for that if your pots are top-heavy.

Does the halo shape make a real difference?

It does, visually. A single-bar light throws a bright patch directly beneath it with falloff toward the edges, while a ring spreads emission around the plant so the outer leaves get usable light. For a rounded, bushy plant the halo covers more of the canopy at the same wattage.

The trade-off is that light leaving the ring at an angle is partly wasted, so total intensity at the canopy is lower than a flat panel at the same power.

Should you stake it or use the base?

Use the base if you can. Staking into soil gives better height control for taller plants, but several buyers report disturbing roots, and the stake leans more than the base does. Whichever you pick, check it every week and re-seat it, because both fail under a leaning pot.

For a shelf near a wall, the short cord is the other frustration. Plan where the adapter will sit before you commit to the position.

7. SANSI Ceramic Clip Light – Best for One Potted Plant

Sometimes the right grow light is the one that handles exactly one plant. This 5W ceramic LED clips to a pot rim, bends over on a 360-degree gooseneck, and covers a single succulent, herb or seedling without turning the windowsill into a construction site.

The stated output is 35.78 µmol/s/m² at 6 inches, which is the only real PPFD figure quoted anywhere in this roundup. The brand also claims 50% lower power draw than a comparable 10W light while producing 25% more growth effect. Whether or not you accept that comparison, the ceramic package clearly does more with its wattage than plastic clip lights do.

Tone matters here as much as output. At 4000K it produces a natural white rather than the pink glow that dominates this category, and reviews single that out as the reason the light stays switched on in a living room. It is ETL listed and backed by two years of service coverage.

For anyone starting out with grow lights, the pot-clip format removes every installation question. Nothing touches the soil, nothing needs a shelf lip, and the 5V supply means it can run from a power bank, a laptop or the included adapter.

Can one small light really keep a plant alive?

For succulents, aloe, African violets, seedlings and small herbs, yes. Reviews describe visible leaf response within days. The limitation is coverage: it is a point source, so a plant more than about 8 inches across starts getting uneven light at the edges.

If you want to cover a whole shelf, the cost of several of these adds up quickly and a bar or panel serves the area more evenly.

Why does the ceramic package matter?

Ceramic LED packages run at higher junction temperatures than plastic packages while holding their brightness, which is why the efficiency figures look generous next to lights with similar wattage. Practically it means the lamp works harder without needing a fan or a large heat sink.

The four brightness levels at 25, 50, 75 and 100% plus a 3, 6 or 12 hour timer cover most indoor schedules. Lower the level for a succulent in summer and raise it for a seedling in winter.

8. Barrina T5 Four-Pack Bars – Best for Under-Shelf Mounting

When you want to convert shelving into a growing area, bar lights are the answer. This pack contains four 1-foot T5 fixtures with 96 diodes between them, running at 5000K white full spectrum and drawing 20W in total against a claimed 120W of conventional plant lighting they replace.

The installation is what separates it from the rest. Each bar comes with its own on/off switch, and the linkable design runs up to 16 fixtures in series using the three 39.37 inch connecting cables in the box. Mounting hardware covers every case: eight installation clips, 12 double-sided tapes and 12 cable ties.

Buyers describe plants responding quickly to the bright neutral output, and note how cool-running the fixtures stay. Holding up in humid conditions is another repeated positive, which is why they show up in vivariums and aquariums as often as on plant shelves.

The most common caveat is the missing timer, and it is an easy one to solve. A mechanical wall timer costs very little and gives you a schedule that never resets.

Are T5 bars bright enough for real growing?

For seedlings, cuttings, microgreens and shelf-level leafy greens, yes. At 6 to 12 inches under the bar the output supports steady vegetative growth, and reviewers report visible response within a couple of weeks.

They fall short for fruiting crops, where you need PPFD in the 600 band. Multiple bars side by side close to the canopy close that gap, which is exactly what the linking cables are for.

What does mounting under a shelf involve?

Peel a strip of double-sided tape, stick it to the underside of the shelf and press the bar up, or use a clip around the shelf lip. Both are in the box. Skip uncured plaster, dusty, greasy or rough surfaces, since the housing is non-magnetic and adhesion will fail there.

Plan the cable route before you mount. The supplied cords are short and the connecting cables are fixed at 39.37 inches, so measure your shelf width first and work out where the nearest outlet will be.

9. Juhefa 48-LED Stake Light – Cheapest Way to Save One Plant

Sometimes a plant needs rescuing and not a grow room built. This stake light does the smallest possible job well: 48 diodes at 6000K, split between 40 white and 8 red, on a thickened gooseneck that twists 360 degrees and holds its shape.

The cable is the standout feature. At 77 inches it reaches from a wall outlet to a desk, a plant stand or a high shelf without an extension cord, and the power can come from either the AC plug or USB. That flexibility is what makes it more useful than cheaper stick lights.

Reviews describe visible leaf response within days on a single small plant, seedling or cutting, and buyers consistently say it is more capable than the price suggests. At 6164 reviews and a 4.5 average it holds its own with lights costing several times as much.

The mechanical weakness is unavoidable: at 6.72 ounces the body is so light the in-ground stake drifts, and most owners tape it down or push it deeper into the pot. That is a five-minute fix, not a dealbreaker.

Is the lowest-priced light here still worth buying?

Yes, for one plant. It reliably revives a struggling windowsill specimen or a cutting, which makes it a sensible first grow light or a gift that does not require research. Just do not expect it to light a shelf.

The 4, 8 and 12 hour cycle timer runs on a 24-hour schedule and the 5 brightness levels adjust without interrupting that timer, so you can dial intensity down in summer without touching the timing.

How do you keep the stake upright?

Push it at least an inch and a half into the soil and angle it slightly away from the leaf mass so the canopy is not pushing it over. Low-tack tape around the stem section above the soil solves it permanently.

The CRI of 95 makes it a genuinely useful desk lamp as well, which is a side benefit reviewers mention often. It is one of the few grow lights here you can justify on two counts.

10. VIVOSUN LumaLight 100W Panel – Best Full Spectrum with Far-Red

This is the most complete spectrum in the roundup. Alongside 3000K and 5000K white and 660nm red, it includes 730nm far-red diodes across 336 total light sources, and far-red is the wavelength associated with the Emerson effect and with extending flowering and yield in many crops.

At 100W with a 4-level dimming knob from 25% to 100%, it covers the full PPFD range. The diode layout is designed for uniform PPFD across the coverage area rather than a centre hotspot, and buyers confirm uniform intensity from the centre to the edge.

The build is the differentiator for humid spaces. An IP65 sealed rating covers water and dust, and the thermal design holds Q90 flux maintenance out to 36000 hours. Reviews praise the low heat output, which means less plant stress and less need to fan the canopy. Rope hangers are included, so mounting needs nothing else.

Warranty cover is unusually generous as well: two years unlimited plus three years limited. For a fixture this size, that is a meaningful commitment from the manufacturer.

Do you need the app and controller?

No, and I would not buy them first. The panel runs standalone on its own dimming knob. If you want scheduling and automation, the Vivosun GrowHub is sold separately and handles scheduling through a mobile app.

Buyers who expected the app to be included are the source of most of the one-star feedback here. Decide whether you actually want phone control before you buy, not after.

When is far-red worth the extra?

When you grow flowering or fruiting plants and want to push the flowering window, far-red is the wavelength to look for. A 730nm diode at even a small share of the diode count is uncommon in lights at this level, and none of the other nine fixtures here includes it.

For a foliage houseplant shelf, far-red makes little practical difference. In that case, brightness and uniformity are the specs to compare.

How to Choose a Grow Light: Nine Factors Worth Checking

Start with the space, not the brand. A clip-on light and a hanging panel solve the same problem at completely different scales, and buying the wrong one is the most expensive mistake in this category.

1. Form factor. Clip-on and stake lights cover one pot. Tripod stands cover a floor corner or a plant group. Linkable T5 bars cover shelves and cabinets. Hanging panels cover closets, racks and seed-starting stations. Our guide to compact indoor setups covers the same principle for other equipment: match the fixture to the footprint before you match it to a spec sheet.

2. Coverage area versus PPFD. A 2×2 foot footprint only means something if the light is measured from the correct height. PPFD falls off with distance under the inverse square law, so a fixture rated for 2×2 foot at 24 inches delivers far less at 36 inches. Always check the stated mounting height.

3. Real watt draw, not equivalent watts. Equivalent wattage is a marketing translation from an older lamp type. Ignore it and read watts from the wall, then divide PPF by watts to get PPE in µmol/J. Higher PPE means lower running costs for the same plant output.

4. Colour temperature and CRI. Lights in the 4000K to 6000K range look natural in a living space, which matters if you sit near them. Blurple combinations are more efficient for pure yield but produce the pink glow that most houseplant owners dislike. Check CRI above 90 if you want to read or work near the light.

5. Flicker-free output. Dimmable LEDs that pulse the current rather than reducing current can produce a faint strobe. Buyers sensitive to this, including people who get migraines around flickering light, should look for flicker-free or PWM-free wording, or pick a light that is not dimmable at all.

6. Dimming range and control location. Ten levels is plenty; four preset levels is workable. Check whether the switch and dimmer sit on the housing or on the cord, because a switch on top of a fixture is difficult to reach once it is hung above head height.

7. Timer versus external timer. Built-in timers are convenient but usually limited to 12 hours and often reset after a power cut. Lights with no timer at all, such as the Barrina bars and the VIPARSPECTRA panel, pair perfectly with a cheap wall timer and give you more scheduling options.

8. IP rating for humid spaces. IP65 and above, as on the VIVOSUN panel, matters in grow tents, humid closets, vivariums and around aquatic setups. Household shelf lights rarely need it, but a rating costs nothing to check.

9. Warranty length. One year is the norm at the low end. Two years appears on the SANSI clip light, the bseah light and the Barrina bars. The VIPARSPECTRA panel carries three years limited and the VIVOSUN panel carries two years unlimited plus three years limited, which reflects expected diode life differences.

Five Mistakes That Make Even Good Grow Lights Underperform

Hanging too high. PPFD falls quickly with distance, so doubling the height cuts the light reaching the canopy dramatically. Start 8 to 12 inches above seedlings and 12 to 24 inches above mature foliage, then watch the leaves.

Dimming a light instead of moving it up. If a plant at the edge is pale, raising the fixture helps every plant at once. Dimming only removes light from the ones that were already fine.

Taking equivalent wattage at face value. A headline equivalent figure tells you nothing about what lands on a leaf. Ask for PPFD at a stated height, and treat any listing that gives only lumens or equivalent watts as incomplete.

Forgetting that timers reset. Several budget lights here lose their schedule after a power interruption, and the tripod light needs its remote set daily. A plug-in wall timer removes an entire class of failure.

Buying one light for a whole room. A 5W clip light can rescue a pot; it cannot fill a room. Match the footprint to the number of plants and accept that a shelf usually needs two or three lights rather than one large one.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict: Which LED Grow Light Should You Buy

The LEOTER 80-LED clip light takes our Editor’s Choice. It has the largest review base in the category at over 12,000 ratings, a 4.5 average, a metal clamp that actually holds position, and enough dimming control to serve a mixed shelf. It is not the brightest light here, and it does not pretend to be.

Buy the VIPARSPECTRA P700 when you need real intensity in a small footprint, and the VIVOSUN LumaLight 100W when you want far-red, app control and an IP65 build. For a single pot, the SANSI ceramic clip is the tidiest answer. For shelves, the Barrina T5 bars plus a wall timer beat everything else on installation flexibility.

Whichever you choose, measure PPFD at leaf level before you judge it, hang it at the height I listed above, and give it a schedule you do not have to touch. That combination fixes more disappointing grow lights than any upgrade in wattage.